A quick post of two pictures of a few of just the coolest people in the world. This place is full of spectular people, so there's never a shortage of conversation: artists, architectres, restorers, conservators, medievalists, enlightenment experts, modernists, photographers, writers and of course your requisite ancient folk
Me and Sarah
Jana, Me and Sarah after fireworks (yup, there are fireworks on occasion right outside our windows)
So the neighbors finally invited us over for a drink tonight.
We started out the front gate of our little place and then out for a walk to Bramante's tempietto around the corner. followed by a spiritual walk across the Janiculum to view the Vatican and back to our neighbor's place The Villa Aurelia Up to the roof for drinks and conversation overlooking the city. and more of the city. And more. and some of the garden Anyone want to visit?
P.S. dinner last night was three salads (beet, spinach and arugala) followed by braised rabbit with polenta and finished with grapes. tonight was a spectacular pasta followed by braised ribs and pepperoni (that's peppers, no salami) ending on peaches in sugared brandy and little tostati (toasted sugared almond sticks).
P.P.S the Villa Aurelia is actually owned by the Academy so I'll do some afternoon reading over there...but it kind of ruined the joke to put that in the story above. :-)
Woke up yesterday and for the first day in a week did not feel my eyelids weighing me down. the night before I had walked out into the cortile of the Academy, where we've been having our dinners and found the complex darkened save for the few tables set up for the fellows to eat. I had an immediate and profound sense of time I'll have here and the joy to come. After dinner, a few of us walked to the Aqua Paola (the so-called fontanone)...a terminus for an aqueduct one block from the Academy, which overlooks the city. I said my hellos to the Roman skyline (which includes Trajan's column, the Pantheon dome, myriad churches, and, of course, the Vittoriano--aka, the typewriter). The city seemed to accept my greeting and let me sleep for the first time in days. I woke up Saturday, refreshed and ready to begin my sojourn.
Last night was 'La notte bianca' the white night. The title is a bit cheesy and implies the nightlong aperture of museums, archives, churches etc. I can think of few other cities that would be aflood with people at 2 in the morning trying to see the state's record office (archivo dello stato). the streets were nearly closed to traffic, not due to barriers, but the crowd of early morning strollers...lines wrapped around the great museums of the city for free admission and folks wandered the subterranean halls of many of the oldest churches. I managed a trip into the state archives (housed in the old Università la Sapienza) and part of a complex by della Porta that includes Boromini's most famous church. We then wandered to the Palazzo Altemps for a look at some ancient sculpture including the sucidal gaul, an aphrodite of Knidos, the "Orestes and Electra" group, and many more spectacular busts, statues and bits of marble.
Back now for a slow Sunday, lunch at a pizzeria in Trastevere and a cook out for dinner.
I just had my first dinner and learned all about the food here. Two years ago, after years of wretched food, the Academy went to Alice Waters, founder of Chez Panise and the slow-food movement in America. They asked her to help them redesign the food experience at the Academy. She told them to hire Mona Talbott to create a sustainability food program here. She did and it is exceptional. She went all over the city on her bike connecting with local organic producers; all of our food is organic, directly purchased and fresh that day.
Tonight we started with Honeydew and Prosciutto (along with white wine and bread). our main course was a small fillet of beef with wilted arugula, green beans in some kind of sweet sauce and small lightly baked potato pieces. Desert was concord grapes, scuppernongs and fresh figs; all arranged on a large fig leaf.
Great conversation with artists and scholars from around the country and world...
I am so happy I almost forget about my flight last night / yesterday. I am in heaven and not just because I'm in Rome. I have posted pictures of my rooms and my views below; needless to say I am one of the luckiest people I know and can't wait to share my (non-monetary) fortune with you all. For the record, I have a DOUBLE bed (WHE-HEW!) and a view of the grounds, my own private bath (well, shower, really), and the smell of sweet cypress and rosemary wafting through my room on a gentle 78 degree breeze.
Sick? yes, I think it is. Giving it back? not in a million. Sharing it with friends and family? You bet your @$$!!
For those non-Texans, they're not playing "I've been workin on the railroad," but "The eyes of Texas are Upon You," UT's fight song. I guess you really have to love this place for that to make you teary eyed...
